It would not be an exaggeration to say that Green & Blue was the main reason I was so excited about moving back to East Dulwich. If you have not visited it yet, I command you to rectify this heinous crime against wine immediately.
After many years working as a sommelier and wine buyer, Kate Thal pursued her dream of opening a wine bar and shop specialising in wines from small producers, produced sustainably and with minimal intervention. All this before the vast majority of people had even heard of ‘natural’ wine. As is often the way with these things, her intial plans to have a chain of 5 sites within 5 years didn’t quite pan out but the original Green & Blue has thrived and has become an East Dulwich institution.
So what’s different about the wines that Green & Blue? Well for a start they are all from smaller producers who focus on growing exceptional quality fruit (predominantly using organic or biodynamic viticulture) and use minimal interventions in the winery, many being ‘natural’ wines. You only have to taste (or even just look at) the wines to appreciate the difference. At a recent evening at Green & Blue, Kate took a (self-admittedly) cheap shot to demonstrate the difference between what they offer and supermarket wines by pitting Moët up against Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus 1er Cru Champagne. Larmandier-Bernier farm biodynamically and this Champagne has zero dosage. It has a razor sharp zippyness, with stone fruit, slight toastyness and a minerally edge. Compare that with the Moët which in comparison tastes sugary and muted. Round one to Green & Blue.
And don’t get me started on the Sebastien Riffault Akemine Sancerre. Wow. If you think you know Sancerre think again. This will knock your socks off.
They also stock the outstanding Clos Fantine Faugeres which I reviewed last year and several wines from one of my favourite Languedoc producers, Les Clos Perdus including this Prioundo which was the highlight of last Friday night. Intense fruit and spice with a surprising finesse.
They haven’t played it safe on their house wine list either. If you order a glass of their house Prosecco the first thing you will notice is that it is distinctly cloudy. Absolutely delicious though.
Hmm I should probably stop writing now, I’m getting thirsty…